The reservations have been booked now that 2010 has arrived. Nantucket awaits the beginning of June! A friend and I started a girls trip to Nantucket a few years ago as a way to reconnect after not having seen each other for years after law school. She leaves behind her husband and children and I leave behind my dogs. We meet in Hyannis around the first of June year after year and have lunch dockside at Baxter's before boarding the fast ferry to Nantucket. We are always on the 1:55 ferry which arrives just in time to check into the White Elephant.
When we started this trip, off season rates at the White Elephant were $135 a night which was just unheard of. Now they are $195 but still a deal. The rates are available Sunday - Thursday before June 15 and not generally over Memorial Day weekend. We have learned over the years to go as late as possible, hopefully after the holiday weekend. More of the stores and restaurants are open, the weather is warmer and generally it is a better

start to the summer season. But believe me, there are no rules when it comes to the East Coast in June. One year, there was a horrible heatwave and it was 100 degrees in Boston and a very steamy 85 on Nantucket. That was the first year I was actually forced into the cool ocean waters in a bathing suit that early in the year. Believe me, it was refreshing. And there have been years when it has been cold and rainy the entire time. But most often we get a nice mix of both which makes it the perfect time of year to go.
Each year that we go, we learn more about the island. Our research and a wonderful concierge named Lou at the White Elephant have shown us parts of the island that we have come to love which keep us coming back year after year. It took us 3 years to finally rent a car for a day to go exploring. That was good and bad. Bad because apparently we were too lazy to leave the downtown shops and restaurants and explore and good because we had enough to do for 3 years before ever needing to leave downtown. Believe me, renting a bike was never in the cards for us. Too old. But most people do. There are bike rentals all over the docks and no reservations are necessary. You can rent by the hour or the day. The island is full of wonderful bike paths to take and you can easily tour the entire island by bike in a day. That just wasn't for us.
However, last year when we rented a car for the day it was the best day I've had anywhere in a long while. To begin with, the rates for car rentals are cheaper in the off season as well, another perk. Since it was off season, I didn't make a reservation in advance, but waited until I spoke to the concierge. Good thing I did because he hooked us up with a great rental and gave us a coupon to boot. We used Affordable Rentals which is just around the corner from the White Elephant. They have a wide variety of cars available from the always popular Jeeps to Mini Coopers to the more basic and very cheap Kia that we rented. We paid $60 for the car that we were able to keep for 24 hours. The White Elephant has a small and free parking lot right across the street from the main entrance which made having a car especially convenient.
After getting bottles of water, beach towels and beach chairs from the front desk at the White Elephant, we set out for a beautiful day exploring the island. We had a list of places we wanted to find after reading about them in Elin Hilderbrand's books. We drove around downtown orienting ourselves and checking out the beautiful old homes that had been there for centuries. We quickly figured out there are only a few main roads and all lead back to the same location. We finally found a main road out of town and headed out towards the ocean to discover beaches and surf that would scare the best surfers.
After getting out to explore the wind first hand, we wound up driving past the most beautiful cemetery at the top of a bluff overlooking the sea. What a peaceful location. Our first main stop was Bartlett Farm. This is a huge farm but it's also a grocery store with an attached greenhouse. Everything was so fresh and wonderful. We bought hand made sandwiches from the deli for our day at the beach, sampled the pies that had just been made fresh, bought stoneware, perused the flowers and plants outside and didn't want to leave. If I lived on that island, I would buy my lunch fresh there everyday.
After purchasing lunch, we headed to the beach. I had always wanted to go to Surfside Beach. From the books I had read, it seemed like the most popular beach and the best for spending an afternoon. And it was. It is my favorite place to be on the island. There is a huge parking lot, a testament to the popularity in the summer months of that location. And as our conci

erge Lou promised, there was a little snack shack at the top of the stairs to the beach. He told us that shack served the best cheeseburgers around which was obvious given the amount of locals that drove up, got lunch, ate and left, never once heading out to the beach.
We took our beach chairs, towels, lunch and magazines and headed out to the beach. The wind was really blowing hard, but this beach faces south, so the sun warmed us tremendously. There weren't more than 5 or 6 people on the whole beach and it was beautiful and clean. It was as if it was our own private beach. I could have stayed there forever. After napping in the sunshine and watching the planes fly by from the airport, we reluctantly headed out. There was more island to explore and we wanted to hit as many beaches as possible!
We next discovered the high school, the airport and some more local housing areas. It was fun to see the non-vacation areas of the island. This island has almost 10,000 year round residents, so despite its small size, there are many locals who live and work there. We headed out past the airport to 'Sconset. A year before, we had taken one of the local buses out to 'Sconset and fell in love with the area.
The local buses are extremely reasonable and a good way of getting around the island if you know where you're going. We picked up the bus right downtown, just past the main street. I believe it cost us $2 for the ride out to 'Sconset. The bike paths follow the roadside past the cranberry bogs and the golf course and it is a good ride for those who wish to explore.
What we had discovered in 'Sconset the year before and again this time with our car was that it is a tiny little town filled with small cottages and roses everywhere. There is a central location where the buses do their drop offs and pick ups and a few steps away is a deli/store, a liquor store and a sandwich shop. The first year, we picked up lunch at the sandwich shop and walked over the walking bridge down to the beach and sat on a bench and ate our lunches. This is another wonderful quiet beach. This time we stopped at the store for some trinkets and a snack and headed over to the beach in our car.
The one word I think everyone uses to describe 'Sconset is quiet. It is such a beautiful place where most of what you hear is the wind whistling through the trees. I love it. This is the place where I would want to live on Nantucket. There are public restrooms hidden in a building about a block north of the deli. Since we had the car, we explored more of the area and found some bigger homes on more acreage out to the south of the town closer to the Coast Guard. Once again, quiet.
On our way back from 'Sconset, we were determined to go to Altar Rock despite having a low rider Kia to travel through the bogs in. We had our map and knew we were looking for unmarked turnoffs from both of the two main roads. Af
ter numerous U-turns, we finally found a road that led to Altar Rock off of Polpis Road. It was bumpy and untamed, but the Kia held up and we made it to Altar Rock. This is said to be the highest point on the island and a frequent choice for wedding celebrations. Once again, it was in the middle of nowhere and so peaceful and windy. Just beautiful.
As the sun was setting, it was time to head back to the White Elephant and figure out our dinner plans. We had remembered our concierge Lou telling us about a beach location where we wanted to end the day and have drinks at sunset but couldn't remember where it was. Turns out it was The Galley Restaurant, just down the street from our hotel, due west. We dressed for dinner and the White Elephant van took us there. It was just a few blocks past Jetties Beach where we take our morning walk. The road dead ends into a parking lot for the Galley Restaurant and the Cliffside Beach Club. The minute we pulled up in the van we knew where we were - The Blue Bistro and The Beach Club - locations made famous in books by Elin Hilderbrand of the same name. We were beyond excited. The Galley is immediately recognizable because of the dory out front filled with flowers. It is beautiful.

Another planning tool to remember is that Nantucket generally has a Restaurant Week in both spring and fall. It is a week during off season that a number of local restaurants participate in where they offer a prix fixe menu in addition to a regular menu. The prices are extremely reasonable and it is a great opportunity to try out the cuisine at new restaurants. The Galley was participating and had a wonderful menu. As it was sunset, I left my friend at the table in the dining room and had to head out to the beach front bar area just to enjoy the sunset. We took photos and I vowed to return for a proper cocktail hour much earlier next time.
Unfortunately, once again, the time flew by way too quickly and with only one day left, we spent it shopping and rushing about trying to take everything in before another year's vacation was over. We vowed that next year if it rained we would finally spend an afternoon at the Whaling Museum and the library and already had a list of all of the restaurants we needed to try out next year.
The good news is, next year is finally here and we will once again be on Nantucket this weekend! More updates soon....