Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Birthday at the Broadmoor


My good friend Kari celebrated a birthday this past weekend and of course, we all joined in for a wonderful weekend at the Broadmoor. Sometimes you don't have to travel hundreds or thousands of miles to experience 5 star hotels and luxurious living. Sometimes it's right in your own backyard. In this case, it's found at the Broadmoor Resort in Colorado Springs.

The Broadmoor is one of just a couple five star resorts in the entire state of Colorado. Given its lack of proximity to the ski resorts, it's surprising to have a resort and conference center hidden on the south side of the Springs. But many organizations hold their conferences here as well as weddings and golf tournaments. However, in the downtime after the holidays, good deals can be found. We booked a winter getaway package with standard rooms in the West Tower for $160 which included 10% off discounts at some of the more popular restaurants and a 15% discount at the shops.

The Broadmoor is spread out over many buildings lining the golf course and the lake. The West Tower has its own valet and entrance on the west side of the lake. At first, I was discouraged by this, but it is infinitely more accessible. There is a check in desk on that side as well as a small bar and lounge area. It was just perfect. Our room was spacious and featured mountain views with a large patio. The amenities were what you would expect from a five star resort with the exception of slippers. I really needed those and expected to find them in my room. We had a room with 2 double beds and they were quite small beds but with plenty of down comforters to make up for the size.

After a brief happy hour in the room, we headed over to the Hotel Bar across the lake. This is a wonderful indoor-outdoor bar that offers a huge outdoor fireplace on the patio with plenty of seating overlooking the lake. In the warmer months, the floor to ceiling windows/doors open to make the indoor area more of an outdoor patio. After happy hour, we headed to The Tavern for our birthday dinner reservations. The Tavern is my favorite place at the Broadmoor. It is a restaurant that has 3 different seating areas, each with its own style. Farthest from the door is the garden area with a glass ceiling and plants and flowers surrounding diners. Just inside that is a quieter carpeted area which features my favorite place to eat, the lunch bar, for lack of a better word. Here you can sit quietly watching the chefs prepare the meals and stay warm from the pizza oven before you. The most popular area during the dinner area is the bar area closest to the door where live music is played during dinner.

Included with the live music is a small dancing area and believe me, it gets used.

We sat in this area and were immediately pleased to recognize the server was a friend of our birthday girl. Dinner and drinks were wonderful and Kari was even served a birthday cake complete with the band singing Happy Birthday. Kari was thrilled! :) Not.

After dinner, it was on to the Summit, the highly touted newer restaurant at the Broadmoor. The Summit is located across the street from the main entrance to the hotel and is attached to the conference center. Since we had just had dessert, we settled for after dinner drinks. We tried to finish the night at one of my favorite bars, the Golden Bee, but unfortunately it was closed for renovations. But we hit every bar and restaurant open that night, so felt we had celebrated Kari's birthday properly.

The next day, after sleeping in and reading the two Sunday papers courteously left on our door, it was time for Kari to head to the spa while the rest of us shopped and wandered around. The Broadmoor is a city unto itself and there is plenty to do. James was able to get work done while Kari was pampered and Joanna used her coupon to buy the family presents. Joanna quickly became starving, so we headed back to the Tavern to belly up to the lunch counter for some pre-Super Bowl snacks and beers.

Snow had started falling early that morning and the grounds of the hotel were transformed into a winter wonderland. The Broadmoor offers an all encompassing Sunday brunch for $35 and it includes unlimited champagne and just about every type of food imaginable. We decided against that as it was Super Bowl Sunday. We headed over to the Golf Club and ate at the grill. I had never known the grill was here before and absolutely loved it. There is a dining area with windows overlooking the golf course or a bar area with red leather bar stools and tv's. We chose the bar area. After one last wonderful meal it was time to head out to beat the weather to get to our Super Bowl parties.

We walked the long way past the lake on the west side and wound up entering the West Tower at the far southern end. In doing so, we discovered hallways filled with photos of all of the famous people who had stayed at the Broadmoor. It was fun seeing this part of the Broadmoor's history. Given that the Ice Hall had previously laid claim to famous figure skating events, there were many sports figures representing U.S. championships won. Not to mention all of the famous golfers and celebrities who attended the championships held at the club. I'm glad we took the time to peruse the walls.

Finally, it was time to say our goodbyes and pack up the car. Remembering we had only been at the hotel for one night, a short 24 hour period, I had to take a photo of James with all of his and Kari's luggage. Clearly, he overpacked and wished he didn't have to leave. Who needs a bellman's cart for an overnight stay 45 minutes from home?? :) Either way, we all had a great time and are glad Kari chose this way to celebrate her birthday! On to London for the Big 4-0!!!















































Saturday, February 6, 2010

Spring on Nantucket

The reservations have been booked now that 2010 has arrived. Nantucket awaits the beginning of June! A friend and I started a girls trip to Nantucket a few years ago as a way to reconnect after not having seen each other for years after law school. She leaves behind her husband and children and I leave behind my dogs. We meet in Hyannis around the first of June year after year and have lunch dockside at Baxter's before boarding the fast ferry to Nantucket. We are always on the 1:55 ferry which arrives just in time to check into the White Elephant.

When we started this trip, off season rates at the White Elephant were $135 a night which was just unheard of. Now they are $195 but still a deal. The rates are available Sunday - Thursday before June 15 and not generally over Memorial Day weekend. We have learned over the years to go as late as possible, hopefully after the holiday weekend. More of the stores and restaurants are open, the weather is warmer and generally it is a better start to the summer season. But believe me, there are no rules when it comes to the East Coast in June. One year, there was a horrible heatwave and it was 100 degrees in Boston and a very steamy 85 on Nantucket. That was the first year I was actually forced into the cool ocean waters in a bathing suit that early in the year. Believe me, it was refreshing. And there have been years when it has been cold and rainy the entire time. But most often we get a nice mix of both which makes it the perfect time of year to go.

Each year that we go, we learn more about the island. Our research and a wonderful concierge named Lou at the White Elephant have shown us parts of the island that we have come to love which keep us coming back year after year. It took us 3 years to finally rent a car for a day to go exploring. That was good and bad. Bad because apparently we were too lazy to leave the downtown shops and restaurants and explore and good because we had enough to do for 3 years before ever needing to leave downtown. Believe me, renting a bike was never in the cards for us. Too old. But most people do. There are bike rentals all over the docks and no reservations are necessary. You can rent by the hour or the day. The island is full of wonderful bike paths to take and you can easily tour the entire island by bike in a day. That just wasn't for us.

However, last year when we rented a car for the day it was the best day I've had anywhere in a long while. To begin with, the rates for car rentals are cheaper in the off season as well, another perk. Since it was off season, I didn't make a reservation in advance, but waited until I spoke to the concierge. Good thing I did because he hooked us up with a great rental and gave us a coupon to boot. We used Affordable Rentals which is just around the corner from the White Elephant. They have a wide variety of cars available from the always popular Jeeps to Mini Coopers to the more basic and very cheap Kia that we rented. We paid $60 for the car that we were able to keep for 24 hours. The White Elephant has a small and free parking lot right across the street from the main entrance which made having a car especially convenient.

After getting bottles of water, beach towels and beach chairs from the front desk at the White Elephant, we set out for a beautiful day exploring the island. We had a list of places we wanted to find after reading about them in Elin Hilderbrand's books. We drove around downtown orienting ourselves and checking out the beautiful old homes that had been there for centuries. We quickly figured out there are only a few main roads and all lead back to the same location. We finally found a main road out of town and headed out towards the ocean to discover beaches and surf that would scare the best surfers.

After getting out to explore the wind first hand, we wound up driving past the most beautiful cemetery at the top of a bluff overlooking the sea. What a peaceful location. Our first main stop was Bartlett Farm. This is a huge farm but it's also a grocery store with an attached greenhouse. Everything was so fresh and wonderful. We bought hand made sandwiches from the deli for our day at the beach, sampled the pies that had just been made fresh, bought stoneware, perused the flowers and plants outside and didn't want to leave. If I lived on that island, I would buy my lunch fresh there everyday.

After purchasing lunch, we headed to the beach. I had always wanted to go to Surfside Beach. From the books I had read, it seemed like the most popular beach and the best for spending an afternoon. And it was. It is my favorite place to be on the island. There is a huge parking lot, a testament to the popularity in the summer months of that location. And as our concierge Lou promised, there was a little snack shack at the top of the stairs to the beach. He told us that shack served the best cheeseburgers around which was obvious given the amount of locals that drove up, got lunch, ate and left, never once heading out to the beach.

We took our beach chairs, towels, lunch and magazines and headed out to the beach. The wind was really blowing hard, but this beach faces south, so the sun warmed us tremendously. There weren't more than 5 or 6 people on the whole beach and it was beautiful and clean. It was as if it was our own private beach. I could have stayed there forever. After napping in the sunshine and watching the planes fly by from the airport, we reluctantly headed out. There was more island to explore and we wanted to hit as many beaches as possible!

We next discovered the high school, the airport and some more local housing areas. It was fun to see the non-vacation areas of the island. This island has almost 10,000 year round residents, so despite its small size, there are many locals who live and work there. We headed out past the airport to 'Sconset. A year before, we had taken one of the local buses out to 'Sconset and fell in love with the area.

The local buses are extremely reasonable and a good way of getting around the island if you know where you're going. We picked up the bus right downtown, just past the main street. I believe it cost us $2 for the ride out to 'Sconset. The bike paths follow the roadside past the cranberry bogs and the golf course and it is a good ride for those who wish to explore.

What we had discovered in 'Sconset the year before and again this time with our car was that it is a tiny little town filled with small cottages and roses everywhere. There is a central location where the buses do their drop offs and pick ups and a few steps away is a deli/store, a liquor store and a sandwich shop. The first year, we picked up lunch at the sandwich shop and walked over the walking bridge down to the beach and sat on a bench and ate our lunches. This is another wonderful quiet beach. This time we stopped at the store for some trinkets and a snack and headed over to the beach in our car.

The one word I think everyone uses to describe 'Sconset is quiet. It is such a beautiful place where most of what you hear is the wind whistling through the trees. I love it. This is the place where I would want to live on Nantucket. There are public restrooms hidden in a building about a block north of the deli. Since we had the car, we explored more of the area and found some bigger homes on more acreage out to the south of the town closer to the Coast Guard. Once again, quiet.

On our way back from 'Sconset, we were determined to go to Altar Rock despite having a low rider Kia to travel through the bogs in. We had our map and knew we were looking for unmarked turnoffs from both of the two main roads. After numerous U-turns, we finally found a road that led to Altar Rock off of Polpis Road. It was bumpy and untamed, but the Kia held up and we made it to Altar Rock. This is said to be the highest point on the island and a frequent choice for wedding celebrations. Once again, it was in the middle of nowhere and so peaceful and windy. Just beautiful.

As the sun was setting, it was time to head back to the White Elephant and figure out our dinner plans. We had remembered our concierge Lou telling us about a beach location where we wanted to end the day and have drinks at sunset but couldn't remember where it was. Turns out it was The Galley Restaurant, just down the street from our hotel, due west. We dressed for dinner and the White Elephant van took us there. It was just a few blocks past Jetties Beach where we take our morning walk. The road dead ends into a parking lot for the Galley Restaurant and the Cliffside Beach Club. The minute we pulled up in the van we knew where we were - The Blue Bistro and The Beach Club - locations made famous in books by Elin Hilderbrand of the same name. We were beyond excited. The Galley is immediately recognizable because of the dory out front filled with flowers. It is beautiful.



Another planning tool to remember is that Nantucket generally has a Restaurant Week in both spring and fall. It is a week during off season that a number of local restaurants participate in where they offer a prix fixe menu in addition to a regular menu. The prices are extremely reasonable and it is a great opportunity to try out the cuisine at new restaurants. The Galley was participating and had a wonderful menu. As it was sunset, I left my friend at the table in the dining room and had to head out to the beach front bar area just to enjoy the sunset. We took photos and I vowed to return for a proper cocktail hour much earlier next time.

Unfortunately, once again, the time flew by way too quickly and with only one day left, we spent it shopping and rushing about trying to take everything in before another year's vacation was over. We vowed that next year if it rained we would finally spend an afternoon at the Whaling Museum and the library and already had a list of all of the restaurants we needed to try out next year.

The good news is, next year is finally here and we will once again be on Nantucket this weekend! More updates soon....




Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Breakfast in New Hampshire

After a long weekend in Nantucket, I always make a point to head up to New Hampshire and visit my favorite bed and breakfast, The Follansbee Inn. Run by Dave and Cathy Beard, it is truly a find. Looking for an escape from the hustle and bustle? This is your place. It is as if you are hidden away in the forest with a beautiful lake before you and there are no sounds other than those of the birds and the wind whistling through the trees.

Granted, I have never been a bed and breakfast type of person, but this Inn has changed my opinion forever. Located an easy 2 hour drive from Boston's Logan Airport and even closer from the Manchester Airport, it is all highway driving through the trees once you leave the Concord area. Of course, I always stop in Concord for a little shopping at the LLBean factory outlet store, but that's me. You will be looking for Exit 11 coming from the South and it's about 20 minutes past the Concord exits. Exact directions from all locations can be found on the website at http://www.follansbeeinn.com/. When you come into town from the highway, you will pass what appears to be a one room police station on your right. Take a right and you pass what appears to be the only gas station/convenience store and you immediately see the beautiful white church and its steeple. The Inn is just past that on the right with a beautiful old graveyard behind it. Across the street is Kezar Lake. You will encounter no other traffic, so take your time to enjoy the views.

Checking into the Inn involves Dave and Cathy greeting you from the living room of this spacious old inn, the largest in New Hampshire with 18 guest rooms. Leave your bags in the hallway - Dave will take care of them while you rest in the comfy chairs in front of a fire and maybe sip a cold beverage from the bar. Strains of Frank Sinatra or Edith Piaff will fill the background and you will immediately feel at home.



If you arrive in the evening, it will be a struggle to go upstairs and unpack and get situated in your room. You won't want to leave the living room. As other guests arrive, a friendly atmosphere reigns downstairs, with most gathering around the small bar next to the fireplace where Dave holds court all evening. There are some bar stools and a small table for conversation or playing cards or sharing a pizza. With a wide selection of beer and wine, Dave will tend to your every need while both Cathy and Dave entertain the guests that wish to be entertained. Your tab will be added to your bill when you check out, so no need for money while you relax.

Across the hall from the living room is a reading room with 2 comfy recliners, a couch and another table with an assortment of games and puzzles to keep you busy. The living room and dining room have a wall of windows facing out over Kezar Lake. You can sit in the living room and watch the sunset or if its warm enough, head outside onto the porch and sit in the comfortable chairs with a book or a glass of wine and breathe in the fresh air.


In the summer months, Dave puts the boat dock into the water and there are kayaks and row boats available for your use to take out onto the water. Row out to Blueberry Island and see nature up close. Or lie in the hammock in the trees next to the lake and take a nap or read a book. Or sit on the swing and feel the sun on your face.


I have taken my 12 year old nephew to the Inn and he was never bored. There was no limit to the amount of things he wanted to do. There are no tv's in the rooms or in the guest areas of the Inn and he never once complained. He just enjoyed clean fresh air and a summertime day kayaking on the lake and taking a nap in the hammock. There are also bikes available to take out for a ride. Take a wonderful long walk or ride around the lake on the road. There won't be much traffic to worry about.

Each room at the Inn is remarkably unique and individual to your needs. There are rooms with double beds, family rooms, adjoining rooms for families with teenagers and all have their own bathroom in the room. Each room has a different name. I have stayed in a different room each time I have visited. After my first visit, I counted "Clarissa" as my favorite. But then the next time, my favorite room was that room. And so on.

But the best part by far of this Inn are the breakfasts. Cathy gets up each morning at 5am and prepares a different breakfast each day from scratch. She uses old family recipes and trust me, the breakfasts are wonderful. From apple pancakes to gingerbread waffles to french toast or quiche, each one is to die for. I always ask her why she needs to get up so early to prepare something as simple as a quiche and she responds that she makes the crust from scratch so it takes longer. You can tell the moment you bite into her food. No expense is spared and each breakfast is made with her family's love of food.



Cathy and Dave have been running this Inn for years and are a wealth of information for visitors looking for trails to hike, skiing, restaurants, or shopping. Colby Sawyer College is in town in addition to Dartmouth College and other prep schools nearby and a lot of visitors are parents of kids attending those schools. But just as many visitors are people who have come through once who return again and again. Just check the huge Guest Book in the foyer and read the comments and you will understand how much people appreciate what this Inn has to offer.

Whether your room looks out over the lake or the changing leaves of the trees in the quiet cemetery, you will cherish the peace and quiet of your visit here and will want to return soon. I will be there again in June and can't wait to see Cathy and Dave.